My sobie wjeżdżamy w znane zaułki i zonk - pomalowali dwie linie (bezwzględny zakaz parkowania w Anglii) przy wszystkich uliczkach a ostatnia z możliwością parkowania została zamknięta. Cóż nie kokosy - ale tym razem darmoszki nie będzie - bo szkoda szukać i palić paliwo skoro tak uszczelnili centrum w kwestii dzikiego parkowania. Nadpłacamy 20 pikaczy i auto bezpieczne przed mandatem na 2 godziny (trochę mało - bo zostaliśmy sporo dłużej, bez mandatu na szczęście, a dlaczego nadpłaciliśmy - będzie o tym mowa).
Wózek w ruch - w końcu to miasto, a wózek przystosowany nawet do lekkiego terenu. Jeśli chcecie bez problemu poruszać się z dziećmi najlepszy wózek trzykołowy gdzie przednie koło ma średnicę co najmniej 15 cm (są większe) a dwa z tyłu 30 cm - i nie ma krawężnika czy wertepu, żeby nie przeskoczył.
Wycieczkę zaczynamy od zejścia do nabrzeża (Exeter Quay) rzeki Exe. Tak w wolnym tłumaczeniu miasto, w którym się znajdujemy to "nabrzeże rzeki Exe" lub "woda rzeki Exe" - sporo jest interpretacji.
Ze wzgórza nabrzeże się prezentuje okazale i nawet poniekąd majestatycznie.
No to jak zwykle, człowiek uczy się na błędach (a rutyna czasami zdradza). Podążamy w dół w wyznaczonym kierunku - i kolejna niespodzianka. Nie idź z wózkiem tam, gdzie człowieki człapią. Blokują nas schody - więc korzystam i zdjęcia robię z wieży obserwacyjnej parkingu - i tu zainteresowałem się cenami. Warto skorzystać z tego parkingu - tym bardziej, że dojazd jest zaskakująco prosty a za postój do 3 godzin zapłacimy mniej o 20p niż ja wydałem za parkowanie na 2 godziny.
Także polecam - nabrzeże blisko a do katedry 10 minut spacerku.
Docieramy miedzy budynki typowe dla zabudowań portowych. Jest niesamowity klimat - człowiek czuje się jak nad morzem. Zaczynam biegać w poszukiwaniu ujęć zostawiając ekipę przed budynkiem izby celnej.
Po kilku ujęciach wracam na miejsce i zonk - wcięło moją kochaną trójkę. Pewnie poszli dalej nabrzeżem, by mnie odnaleźć. A nabrzeże za budynkami szczerzy się komorami, które wcześniej pewnie służyły za przeładunkowe a dziś jako sklepy typu "schwartz, mydło i powiodło"
Nie znalazłem ich, wiec wracam do punktu wyjścia - to jedyne miejsce, aby z nadbrzeża dostać się z powrotem do centrum. I na moich oczach mało nie rozegrał się dramat. Byłem za daleko, by zareagować, ale opiszę, ku przestrodze.
Mamusia, tatuś, dzidzia, kundelek i CHOLERNA SMART KOMÓRKA - 4 postacie dramatu i właśnie owa komórka jako piąty element...
Rozglądam się, jak tu ująć most i rzekę na tle nieba południowo - zachodniego, które w żaden sposób nie chce być w całości błękitne, w jak na złość do przeciwnego kierunku ( z jednej strony miasta piękny błękit, który tutaj zauważycie, z drugiej mleczno-szare chmury).
I nagle, jak w zwolnionym tempie...
Mama, z komórką w dłoni puszcza wózek, tata wcześniej (na szczęście) szarpiąc się z niesfornym młodym psem, wyjął dziecko z wózka i posadził "na barana". Mama, już bez kontroli nad pojazdem, coś klika na ekranie komórki - w tym momencie przednie koło wózka łapie dokładny kierunek pochyłości nabrzeża, ciężar obraca go w stronę wody i cały wehikuł zaczyna przemierzać dystans około 2-3 metrów wprost w toń rzeki Exe.
Tata tylko lekko krzyknął - mama jak oparzona odrywa się od komórki, lecz za późno - wózek już przechyla się do wody, dotykając jej toni przednim kołem. Kobieta łapie rączkę wózka jedną ręką (w drugiej ma telefon) - bezskutecznie - dwoma na pewno by się udało - trójkołowa spacerówka na jedno dziecko waży jakieś niecałe 10 kg z wszystkim, co można na nią załadować.
Wózek z pluskiem wpada do wody, przy akompaniamencie wrzasków "ratujcie wózek".
Mam uczulenie na komórki i "marsz zombie" - gdzie człowieki idą ulicą i rozmawiają, piszą czy przeglądają internet, zamiast uważać co się wkoło dzieje.
Proszę - szczególnie z dziećmi, nie dajcie się elektronice i "Wielkiemu Bratu" - my jadąc w teren praktycznie mało kiedy mamy telefon przy sobie - to jest czas dla nas i nie warto, choćby sekundę z niego uronić na korzyść fejsbuczków czy innych pierdół. Fejsbuczek, strona z najnowszą modą, kolega, który się spyta czy wyjdziecie wieczorem - oni poczekają, życie niekoniecznie.
Na przestrogę zdjęcie i film z angielskiej kampanii "2 sekundy"...
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Moich Kochanych znalazłem tam gdzie się spodziewałem - pod budynkiem celnym. Byli w środku i oglądali wystawę kiedy ja ich szukałem. No to ruszamy pod górkę w stronę ścisłego centrum i katedry naszego city. I znowu zgodnie z zasadami city: jest katedra, musi być szkoła przykatedralna. Chociaż katedra mniejsza niż w Wells to jednak zabudowań szkolnych więcej i bardziej okazałe, flota też spora.
Katedrę "zachodzimy" od południa.
Pogoda piękna, może zachodnia fasada jest niewysoka jak na brytyjskie katedry, to jednak ma swój urok i bije od niej powagą czasu...
Katedra do 15:30 - z tego tytułu zrezygnowaliśmy z drugiej strony nabrzeża, zwyczajnie myślałem, że zwiedzanie zajmie więcej czasu.
Pani w "recepcji" (mamy 14:23) robi koszmarne "faux pas" - bierze nas za obcokrajowców i wydaje zwykłe bilety. "Pacze, pacze i nie widzę" - miało być nielimitowane wejście a jest zwykły bilet. No to, ze swoją prostotą i bezpośredniością, zwracam się do pani, że ja chce wrócić za darmo i dlaczego nie ma "gift aid" (taki rodzaj 1% podatku na organizacje pożytku publicznego).
Pani, mimo wieku, się zarumieniła i zaczęła gęsto tłumaczyć że po akcencie wzięła nas za turytów. No to już - w dłoni dzierżę to co "kciałem" - nielimitowane wejście do katedry. Warto było się produkować, że synowie angole a my tu płacimy podatki na tak świetnie działającą służbę zdrowia jak w PL - tyle że na kursie pierwszej pomocy w Polsce, angielscy lekarze by się więcej nauczyli, niż umieją...
No to ruszamy - jak zwykle, bez czytania przewodników i bez rozeznania sytuacji .
Katedra przepiękna - Dorotka prowadzi wózek, a ja szleję po wnętrzu z aparatem (wiadomo-galeria na końcu wpisu).
Kaplice i zdobienia robią wrażenie niesamowite, choć jestem rozczarowany brakiem podziemi. Są epitafia i sarkofagi, są znaki kościoła anglikańskiego - jest wszystko z wielkiego kunsztu budowniczych.
Tu już nikt się nie wyciął na planowaniu i możemy się delektować organami przed prezbiterium, zamiast dodatkowymi podpórkami.
Jednym z cenniejszych zabytków, wartym zwrócenia uwagi, jest zegar astronomiczny - zresztą uroczy w swej budowie.
Lubię klimat angielskich katedr - jest kompletnie inny od polskich. A historia tej świątyni jest dość ciekawa - i wyjaśnia skąd zupełnie inny wygląd od katedry Wells. Początki sięgają jeszcze Wilhelma Zdobywcy - czyli XI wieku. Budowano ją na bazie kościoła powstałego w tym samym czasie co zamek (też do niego dotrzemy) - czyli kościoła w stylu normańskim (Wells to gotyk klasyczny).
Północna fasada jednak i tak imponuje jako tło dla posągu Richarda Hookera - jednego z najważniejszych i najwybitniejszych teologów kościoła anglikańskiego.
Północna pierzeja obfituje , wraz z zachodnią, w wiele starych budynków i jest bardziej miejska w swojej stylistyce.
Powoli dreptamy sobie do serca nowoczesnego miasta. Po prawej interesująco wyglądający ruina - to poniekąd pomnik. Jak dowiadujemy się z napisów, resztki przytułku i kaplicy świętej Katarzyny. Do 1942 budynek był używany i utrzymywany w dobrej kondycji przez lokalną szlachtę i możnych - niestety w 1942 obiekt został zbombardowany i zniszczony. Gmina nakazała jednak, aby został zabezpieczony i służył jako pomnik ku pamięci bombardowań Exeteru. A należy pamiętać, że Exeter był jednym z ważniejszych miast uczestniczących w przygotowaniach do "D - day" w 1944 roku - czyli lądowania w Normandii.
Jest też element polski, związany z obroną powietrzną Exeter - w latach 1940 - 1942 nie tylko Exeter, ale i całego południowego wybrzeża na nocnej zmianie strzegł polski dywizjon 307 "Lwowscy Puchacze". Byli nazywani w mieście "Aniołami stróżami" - społeczeństwo bardzo szanowało naszych lotników - byli zapraszani na wszelkie publiczne uroczystości a 15 listopada 1942 wywieszono w ratuszu polską flagę i ustalono jej dzień w Exeter. W 2012 roku odbyła się wystawa poświęcona naszym pilotom. Lokalny historyk poświęcił im nawet dość obszerną publikację pod tytułem “Anioły Stróże Exeter” (“Exeter’s Guardian Angels"). 19 z tych Aniołów zostało na zawszę strzec miasta na cmentarzu Exeter...
Dla ciekawskich, jeden z artykułów, który posłużył mi do zdobycia niezbędnej wiedzy:
Dzień polskiego dywizjonu 307
Tuptamy dalej i wchodzimy do samego serca Exeter - zespół handlowy Princesshay (bo centrum handlowe to za mało powiedziane) - miejsce, które każdy maniak zakupów musi odwiedzić i obiecuję, że się nie zawiedzie.
Zakupoholikami nie jesteśmy - więc nas tu nie ciągnie, ale ogólne wrażenie bardzo pozytywne. Równolegle do całego zespołu prowadzi ścieżka zwana "rzymskim spacerem" - jest usytuowana przy murach miejskich, które, jeśli wierzyć tabliczce, były postawione przez rzymian a potem nadbudowywane przez kolejne pokolenia exeterczyków.
W zespole znajdują się tez obiekty sztuki - brzmi to dziwnie, ale jakoś nie znalazłem lepszego określenia dla tej nietypowej wystawy. W różnych punktach ustawiono rzeźby, płaskorzeźby czi inne obiekty w liczbie sztuk 8 - ale żeby nie było za łatwo, to wrzucam tylko mapkę.
Po opuszczeniu ścisłego centrum Exeter prezentuje się jak każde zwyczajne miasto angielskie - choć biorąc pod uwagę, że mamy niedzielę popołudniu, to ruch zadziwiająco niski.
Okazuje się, że stworzono nową atrakcję w Exeter. Zwiedzanie podziemi. Z racji, że jest po sezonie, zabrakło nam w sumie 5 minut, żeby załapać się na ostatnie wejście. Ale jak będziecie planować zwiedzanie tego miasta to myślę, iż ta tabliczka ułatwi wam zamknięcie ram czasowych, żeby z wszystkim się wyrobić.
A teraz wisienka na torcie - polowanie na zamek!
Przy wcześniejszych wizytach jakoś umknął mi fakt, że choćby ruiny powinny pozostać. Tym razem jakoś natchnęliśmy się na informacje na którymś z informatorów. Ale nic konkretnego w sumie nie dowiedzieliśmy się - i to ani o zamku, ani jak tam dotrzeć. Akurat Dorotka zabrała swoje ustrojstwo - więc korzystam z dobrodziejstwa odmóżdżającej maszynki i włączam GPS z nastawieniem na zamek. Niby blisko - 1,6 km piechtą. Więc startujemy i kiedy już zostało jakieś 600m, według ustrojstwa, zobaczyłem po prawej bramę.
Ogrody Norternhern - przepiękny park rozciągający się wokół (jak się dopiero potem okazało) zamku.
Spacer, wraz ze zlustrowaniem wszystkich zakamarków, zajmuje około 30 minut - pięknie położone miejsce, świetnie rozplanowane z szeregiem ciekawych rzeźb. Największa upamiętnia mieszkańców Exeter, którzy zginęli podczas wojen. Roślinność różnorodna, pięknie wkomponowana w mury zamkowe. Szczerze to brak mi słów, aby opisać piękno tego miejsca - a jak tu jest późną wiosną, czy wczesnym latem - nie jestem w stanie sobie nawet wyobrazić.
Ruszamy powoli do ostatniego punktu tej wycieczki - zamek Rougemont - czyli zamek "czerwona góra", nazwa lokalna wzięta od koloru wzgórza, oraz kamieni z których mury wzniesiono. A zaczął je wznosić Wilhelm Zdobywca od 1068, po zdobyciu starego zamku, zresztą tablica na bramie to potwierdza.
Historia często wspomina o zamku i jego znaczeniu, które niestety malało.
W pewnym momencie przestał on odgrywać strategiczną rolę i pozostał jedynie siedzibą sądu, która w XVI wieku została rozbudowana o budynek położony samodzielnie na placu zamkowym, bez kontaktu z murami. Sąd miał się dobrze aż do XX wieku - w tymże miejscu skazano ostatnie osoby posądzone o czary na ziemiach angielskich.
Obecnie właścicielem jest gmina, plany zagospodarowania nic nie wspominają o dalszych poczynaniach, co do tego miejsca. Póki co część wnętrz jest niedostępna dla turystów a część zaadoptowano na lokale mieszkalne. Szkoda, bo podejrzewam, iż wnętrza dwóch sal sądowych, mogłyby być dodatkową atrakcją miasta i chyba nie mniejszą jak wnętrze katedry.
Wracamy powoli do samochodu - no teraz dojście do zamku wydaje się dziecinnie proste i zupełnie oczywiste. Ale tak to zawsze jest po czasie, że jak już się coś przejdzie raz, to wydaje się bardzo łatwe. Wracamy troszkę inną drogą - jedna z głównych arterii centrum - High Street. Polecam spacer wieczorową porą - wtedy pewne budynki są pięknie podświetlone i wyglądają wprost magicznie.
Jeszcze tylko spojrzenie na katedrę z innej perspektywy i czas zbierać manatki.
Na eskapadę naszymi śladami, bez podziemi i muzeum Księcia Alberta (niestety było zamknięte, stąd pominąłem we wpisie), należy przeznaczyć bez mała 3 godziny. Exeter warto odwiedzić dwa razy - tylko nie wiem, którą kolejność polecić.
Bo city zupełnie inaczej prezentuje się w świetle dnia a inaczej w wieczornym blasku neonów. Ja pierwszą wizytę zaliczyłem właśnie na wieczornym spacerze i chyba mam większy sentyment do późnej pory, niż do blasku dnia.
Zresztą, może kiedyś uzupełnimy tę galerię o nocne zdjęcia. .
A w kolejnym wpisie pójdziemy na nadmorski spacer do całkiem małej miejscowości, o wielkiej urodzie - Sidmouth.
Do napisania.
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